Sunday, December 3, 2017

Review: Rosme Marta

From what I can tell, Rosme has what they consider their 'Classic' (read: pointier) collection and their newer styles. Marta is firmly in that former category. There are real differences in shape in all of the styles I've tried, with the best shape (for me) being the newer Rosabel and (far & away) the worst being Annija with this one, the older classic Marta, being 2nd worst. Unfortunately, the 'classics' are also the most comfy with softer fabric used for the lace, band and clasp. The Mona is in between these two shapes, and is also the most comfy.

Beauty

Here is how the Marta looks on (much) smaller boobs:

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ft0AAOSwEK9TvTUx/s-l400.jpg

Definitely no wow factor with the very basic colorways but the contrasting lace makes it less plain and the strap detailing is a nice touch. 


Comfort & Fit

Fabric.  The microfiber is smooth and the lace is on the softer side and has moderate stretch -not as much as the other styles, but enough to prevent cutting in or gaping on different shapes.

Band.  2-hooks, as with all the styles I've tried; it's not a dealbreaker, as it does not cut in like say, the dreadful band of a Cleo. It is mesh, but reasonably soft. I find Rosme bands to be true to size, maybe slightly on the loose side, but not enough to drop down a size.

Cups.   Decidedly aimed at full-on-bottom boob shapes. Though not to the  extreme that the Annija is. A balanced shape might do well with the Marta, though you are still going to get a shape that is on the pointy side--just not to the degree that I am getting here. 

Shape.

Good lord, I feel like I'm in danger of putting someone's eye out.

This is similar to the shape I get with Curvy Kate (see Dreamcatcher) though this shape is actually a bit better than CK.  




The cups are cute quite low for a balconette and are almost giving a hybrid plunge effect.



The cup is not too small, but I'm getting that squared-off triangle shape I also get with Curvy Kate.  

The shape of the cup is just not a great match for my full-on-top shape. And the lace isn't stretchy enough to overcome that, the way it is in the Mona



When Do I Wear It?

It's not going to be very often. Even under a structured blouse, the shape will be too projected and pointy. Under a drapey knit fabric, this shape would cause epic boob-tenting of circus proportions. Which really just leaves sweaters. Very thick ones. Which I cannot wear to my overheated office. So the usefuless of Marta is very limited for me, pretty much just to weekend grocery shopping. However, if you are full-on-bottom--and you happen to like that moderately pointy/perky shape--this would be a good choice for a fairly comfy work bra that is a bargain
Size: 40H 

Sunday, November 26, 2017

Review: Wacoal Women's How Perfect Full Figure Wire-Free Bra

Wacoal is not really one of my favorites - with the exception of the few styles that have the glorious foam-wrapped underwires - but in my quest for more wire-free options (that can be worn outside the house) I gave the How Perfect a try. 


The details are always tougher to see in a black colorway, so here's a view of the dreaded beige (which you know I did not buy, hah):
 https://images.prod.meredith.com/product/f2f0f4e0d2e5c3a7926b9c67c69ce88d/1503129462599/l/wacoal-womens-how-perfect-full-figure-wire-free-bra-naturally-nude-38ddd

It's quite plain, but the crossover style is 'faux', so there is no gaping or possibility for boobs to make like escape artists. 

Comfort & Fit

Fabric.  A very thick, smooth microfiber, with -unfortunately- only a small amount of stretch.

Cups.   Due to the lack of stretch in the fabric, the cups really have reduced capacity. 


And very little ability to mold to your shape. 




The top of the cup is surprisingly closed and is definitely cutting in on the top.




There's also a whole lotta uniboob smooshing going on.


And forcing of my full-on-top shape into a  downward ski-slope droop.





Shape.   Pretty lackluster, though not terrible. 



It's kind of compressing the boobs in from the sides, rather than lifting from the bottom.












Dealbreakers


Side Stays. They are the thick clunkers and oddly taller than the sides of the cups, so they are decidedly digg-y.


 
Straps.  It's not the straps themselves -those are actually nice and wide and fairly soft. No. It's the slider which is just obnoxious:

I tried to balance it over the curve of my hand, to give an idea of how it lays against the skin of your back, and for scale.

So you can see just how big this honker is. 

The sharp edges of that huge metal slider extend well past the strap...and cut right into my back. 

Even when I was just standing still.





When Do I Wear it?

You guessed it. Never. I really can't see who this style might work for. My back is not super fleshy, and has a fair bit of muscle, i.e. the straps are not sinking into any fluffy bits. Yet, due to the size of the sliders, they are still cutting into my skin and highly irritating. If you do have a bit more fluff on your back, then I imagine this issue would only be exacerbated. But if you don't have sensitive skin, and you are a shallow, full-on-bottom shape, this could be a workable wireless option with decent shaping. Full price is around $55.
Size: 42DDD (fits like a UK 38FF)

Sunday, November 19, 2017

Review: Rosme Rosabel

Because I quite liked the Mona as a practical, versatile, lightweight work bra, I decided to try another style, making sure this time that it contained stretch lace, to avoid another debacle like the Annija

Here is how Rosme describes the Rosabel collection:
Soft romantic collection in a colour of a light pink marshmallow. Combination of Italian base material and elastic laces makes this collection unbelievably light and elegant.

Beauty

I was looking for a light-colored neutral - which for me is not the same as beige. And the colorway of Rosabel functions very well for that: a delicate pale blue base, with the lace and pattern detailing in a shade that is referred to as 'marshmallow pink', which is a very pale -barely there- ballet pink. I find it pretty, subtle, and on the elegant, rather than kitschy, side.

None of my winter-lighting pics can show this colorway accurately, so here is one that does:
Image result for rosme Rosabel


Comfort  & Fit

Wires.  Pretty perfect. Nice and low, in a straight Euro 'U' shape, with no winging UK swoop toward the sides. Medium-narrow and light-medium gauge.

Fabric.  There is good and bad news here. The lower cup is lined in a soft knit fabric, which is very comfy and supportive. The lace upper cup is meh, not the softest, but not the worst, either; just average stretch lace. The edging along the band is not soft; that may soften with repeated washings...or it may not.

Cups.  Quite deep. Less so than Gorsenia, but more deep and narrow -& certainly lower at the side- than any UK brands I've encountered. The lace has lots of stretch, and is a medium-weight, so plenty sturdy, with very good shape retention I.e. it plays nice with full-on-top boobs, but should not gape on full-on-bottoms.



Band.  There are some problems. Worst of all is the actual clasp -which is only 2 hooks, as with every Rosme I've tried. But's it's the fabric edges of the clasp and hooks that are incredibly sharp and highly irritating; it actually feels scratchy against the skin. This was not the case on the other Rosme's I tried. It was irritating enough that I tucked a folded tissue beneath the clasp to protect my skin. 

Straps.  Average. They are a bit wider in my size, so less thin than they appear in the first pic. They are comfortable enough and do not dig in. There is a semi-padded version as well, and that appears to have the wider strap style.

Shape.  Better than Annija. A little more rounded and the seams lay flatter and are not visible under knits.


When Do I Wear It?

To work, mainly. I appreciate the lightweight fabrics in an overheated office, as well as the moderate shape, low wire height, and (with the exception of the clasp) reasonable comfort. All at a price point under $30. 
Size: 40H (fits like a UK 40G or 38GG and a Euro 38I)

Sunday, October 29, 2017

Review: Curvy Studio bralettes (at Target)

This is one of the few brands that actually makes bralettes designed to fit up to an H-cup (US). Curvy Studio is a cheaper line of Curvy Couture, found at Target. I haven't found much success with bras in either version, but the bralettes looked promising.

Beauty

I tried two styles, the Perfect Lace Bralette and the (oddly -& inaccurately-named) High Apex Lace Bralette. Both styles share a similar look, and suffer from the same issues, but the shape is different. And I find the High Apex prettier, with it's laced-edged straps and deeper V-neck.

The Perfect Lace Bralette:


 High Apex Lace Bralette


The only real difference between the styles is the shape. 

The weirdly named High Apex has better shaping due to a vertical seam (more on that later) in the cup. This has nothing to do with a high apex, but simply a deeper cup - which would have been a far more sensible -& helpful- name.

While the Perfect Lace is more of a smooshed sports-bra style, without any defined cup shape.  



Both styles look really promising on paper:
  • Soft-ish lace fabric is lined with mesh for actual support
  • Longer-line band, for more stability
  • Cups sized to fit up to an H-cup (US)

In reality, both suffer from the same serious design flaws: 

Straps are not restricted-stretch and totally dig in. Which is just really silly, when they went to the trouble to make an H-cup with mesh lining.


Band.   Incredibly, deeply annoying. It instantly scrunches itself up. It literally would not stay in place long enough for me to snap a pic.

Here is how long it is - if I hold it in place with my hand.


Annnnd when I let go:

It's basically like wearing a scrunchy around your chest. I have a natural figure-8 shape, i.e., a defined waist. So I can't imagine what shape rib cage/waist this would actually work for. 

Seams.  And the final flaw for the High Apex style is that vertical seam that gives such an improved shape. Take a look at the inside - this is what is actually against your boob:

Yeah. That is appalling. The last time I encountered a seam that ridged and rugged was on a canvas cushion for outdoor furniture. Not really something I want on the sensitive skin of my boobs. 

When Might You Wear These?

For lounging around the house -though the High Apex could be wearable as an out-of-the-house weekend bra- assuming you don't mind that 6" scrunchy around your ribs, and you can tolerate that crazy seam against your skin.

Sizing: A very large range for a bralette: M to XXL (36C-42H)
High Apex in XXL (per size chart, fits 40G-42H). This style definitely has more cup capacity.
Perfect Lace in XL (38G-H)

Saturday, October 14, 2017

Review: Rosme Mona Unpadded

Rosme is an Eastern European brand that is worth trying. It is easily available on Amazon & eBay and most of their styles are under $25. Their aesthetic is pretty utilitarian: simple styles - and beige, black & white are the only colors you're likely to find. However, there is a wide variety of styles, which are truly aimed toward different shapes. 

So, unlike brands such as Panache - and especially Freya & Elomi, which really only cater to one single shape - your chances of finding a style that suits you are quite good. Case in point: the Annija was one of the worst fits (for my shape) I've tried in quite some time. But the Mona is a different beast altogether:

 Beauty


It is very difficult to make out in photos, but the upper cup is a very open, stretchy, soft lace; the bottom cup is satin. Overall, the design is quite plain and streamlined. 


Comfort

Band. Non-mesh, 2-hook, runs large and stretchy (as do all the Rosme I've tried). I actually bought this bra a couple of years ago, but it fit a bit too loose for good support, so I packed it away. Now, 20 lbs later, it fits quite well. The band is actually comfy. Not something I'd expect with 2 hooks, but the fact that it is not made of crappy, rugged mesh really helps with that. 

Cups.  Wires are on the softer side, and nice medium height; upright U-shape. The upper lace is an open pattern, which provides lots of stretch and ventilation and makes it full-on-top friendly. The whole bra feels very light on the body; I could feel air flow just walking around. The Mona is the opposite of 'a lotta bra'. The cups have good capacity and depth; the Mona tacks better than usual on me. 


Straps.  They have those ring-connectors I absolutely hate - except when I don't, in this single rare case. Surprise: they are actually comfy. Because they are designed correctly i.e. the ring sits where it should: not smack on top of my shoulder, but over it, and about 1/3 of the way down my back. So there is no weight or pressure. The front of the strap is broader, but not actually padded. 


Compromise

Shape.  And it's iffy to even list it under this category because shape is more a matter of preference, really. And Mona does not give a horrid shape like, say, Curvy Kate's ski slope (for FOT's). It's just not quite as round (under clothing) as I'd like.


And this pic shows really well how Euro designs differ from UK designs. See that area from the strap to the band? See what's not there? Yep: that deeply annoying extra fabric that comes up way too high on UK bras and cuts into the underarm area. Whereas this Euro design is cut perfectly to follow the lines of the body, giving you full range of motion with zero cutting in.

For comparison, here is the Panache Jasmine, one of their 'lower'(!) wire styles.
I'm a good 20 lbs thinner in this pic, but from the way the bra cuts in & encases me, you wouldn't guess that. The band was even a little loose on me then. 
 


 When Do I Wear It?

This is another good 'anytime' bra. It's a good work bra, especially for overheated offices, since it is so lightweight and cool. It's perfectly comfy for weekends, too. The only time I wouldn't likely choose Mona is under thin, loose knits. The lace pattern is flat and invisible, but the seam is a little prominent and the shape a little more projected, which makes a high likelihood for boob-tenting.

Size: 40H (Euro sizing) Fits me like a UK 40G
The bands do run quite loose and stretchy, so sister-sizing won't be as useful here. The stretch-lace and projected cups makes this very workable for FOT's, though it's probably aimed at a balanced shape. I do think full-on-bottoms could also do well with this style, especially if you have some projection; the lace is more substantial than say, Jasmine, and is unlikely to gap.


Sunday, October 8, 2017

Review: Gorsenia Verona

In my latest attempt to find another style as wonderful as Gorsenia's Solange, I tried Verona. From the Amazon pics, she looked very similar in structure; however, she turned out to be more similar to Lilli-Rose, also a good bra - just not as good. 

Beauty


Satin luster combines with a pretty lace-on-sheer section. The overall effect is one of clean-lined elegance. The lace is flat and does not show under knits.

Comfort & Fit

Cups.  They run slightly smaller than Solange, so I get less of the fluttering effect with the lace panel: a little on my smaller left side, and none at all on my right. As with all Gorsenia styles I've tried, they are very full-on-top friendly - a welcome rarity - and also would work for balanced shapes. Full-on-bottoms, not so much; you will have a lot of empty upper cup, and as there isn't much stretch to the lace, it isn't going to conform to that shape well.  I am getting the usual Gorsenia perfect tack.

Band.  Unfortunately, it is mesh. It runs quite a bit tighter than Solange's lovely satin band. And it is power mesh, not the finer, softer mesh of a Natori. It's not a dealbreaker, but it does mean that I am ready to take Verona off when I get home, whereas Solange, I am happy to wear out to dinner after work. 

Straps.  These are the same slightly wider - and much shorter - straps of Lilli-Rose. I have to wear them fully extended. There's no awful ring connector, so they are fully adjustable and very petite-friendly. 

Wires.  The same medium/narrow U-shape and medium height of all the unpadded Gorsenias I have tried. A perfect fit for my projected, medium-set shape - though, as always, I'd prefer them to be a 1/2" shorter. 

Shape

I am really happy with the shape I get from every Gorsenia I've tried. 


My natural shape is respected and allowed to do its thing.

But in a way that is lifted, centered, and supported. 

Boobs are kept on the center of my chest, which keeps my silhouette balanced, rather than wide.







The profile shape is pretty much perfection:

Definitely lifted - but not boosted.  

Rounded, but not disconcertingly perfect-orb round. 

Naturally projected - but not in-your-face as Ewa Michalak is.


When Do I Wear It?

For work, mainly. The shape is incredibly versatile and does not create any cleavage. This is huge, as I am high-set and can basically show cleavage in anything other than a turtleneck. The shape works as well under a thin T-shirt as it does under a chunky sweater.

The only instance where a Gorsenia may not be the best choice is with a fitted button-down in a non-stretch fabric, say an Oxford shirt. A style I very rarely wear, in any case. (For that kind of highly structured clothing, you're pretty much stuck with a minimizer bra in any case, unless you have the shirt custom-tailored to your own big-boob specs.) But if for some reason I had to wear that kind of clothing, I would opt for either Liliana or Esme as both possess magical, minimizing - but not widening/flattening - properties.  

Size: 40H (Euro sizing)

Sunday, September 24, 2017

Review: Hanky Panky Organic Cotton Crop Top

https://i.pinimg.com/236x/14/ae/9d/14ae9d52f9844a26864b1f99bf86f22d--hanky-panky-organic-cotton.jpg 



I tried this in black, but it's much easier to see the details in white. Which is why I didn't bother to take any photos of how it looked on me before I returned it. 
https://i.pinimg.com/736x/1d/42/07/1d42072560b7f8d91bc1a7a64b2dbd12--panky-hanky-organic-cotton.jpg

Nutshell: Very disappointing.

I opted for the crop top style over the other bralette designs by the brand as it came in extended sizes and the construction was more likely to work for larger busts. Theoretically.

Beauty: The lace pattern is quite pretty and saves it from being completely plain. 

Comfort:  Nope. The lace is scratchy, not soft in any way. Which is outrageous, considering the price point of $50. The organic cotton is also pretty underwhelming. It is far less soft than the $15  Leading Lady Cami Bralette, which is a superior choice in every way: comfort, support, & price.

Fit:  Very little in the way of anchorage in that inadequate thin band with the scratchy lace hanging limply below it. The straps are the worst part of the design. They are flimsy and ultra-stretchy. They literally provide less-than-zero support. If your boobs are bigger than an A-cup, they will simply drag them down like grapefruits suspended from dental floss. Wait. That would actually offer more support than these straps, because it is not stretchy. 

Who Might This Work For?
Literally, A-cups with skin as non-sensitive as the hide of a rhinoceros. 

Size: 1x